Ford Tractors Discussion Forum
1720 no start
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| Markford Report to Moderator
| | Unable to resolve starting issues:
Original problem was (or seemed to be) that the alternator was not charging the battery. Had alternator diagnosed by Advanced Auto
, their test showed that the alternator was not putting out any charge, so I had it rebuilt. Then tractor wouldn"t start, period, with the recharged battery. Obviously suspected the started soleniod, so had it diagnosed, and ultimately replaced as well. Jumping the solenoid now, the tractor turns as expected. But there is no power going to the ignition switch. Bench tested the Switch itself, it seems ok. I can"t get any further with the troubleshooting, because I can"t determine where the red/white striped wire going to the ignition switch - which I assume should be the hot wire, according to the bench test results- is supposed to be getting current from. There just does not seem a route or connection back to the battery from it. My next step is a wiring diagram , unless anyone can offer help Thanks. | | [Log in to Reply][No Email] | |
| oldmax Report to Moderator
| Re: 1720 no start in reply to Markford, 08-16-2008 18:59:27 | | | If it's like my 1715 it has a safty switch on the PTO and under the left runing board for the clutch . |
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| KLS70 Report to Moderator
| Re: 1720 no start in reply to Markford, 08-16-2008 18:59:27 | | | Rewire your ignition switch to the solenoid. I did that and it started great. What are the volts your getting at the ignition. Best of Luck!! |
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| tonyh Report to Moderator
| Re: 1720 no start in reply to KLS70, 08-16-2008 19:32:16 | | | How do I do that and would it help determine if the solenoid's working. My 1710 starts off a running car but not the battery (which has newly been replaced- problem predates battery) and sometimes but not always restarts shortly after running. I have lights. |
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| Markford Report to Moderator
| Re: 1720 no start in reply to KLS70, 08-16-2008 19:32:16 | | KLS, I am not getting any volts at the ignition switch, that's my main problem at this point it would seem. So there is a bad safety switch in the the hotwire circuit from the battery, preventing the voltage from reaching the switch - that's my guess. I just am unable to identify that hotwire at this point. Separately, I know that the S-wire from the ignition to the solenoid is good, by running voltage thru it. | | [Log in to Reply][No Email] | |
| KLS70 Report to Moderator
| Re: 1720 no start in reply to Markford, 08-17-2008 17:03:59 | | | That safety switch is more than likely your problem. I had that problem while working on this kind of tractor and I had trouble with the AMP gauge. The amp gauge was shorting out causeing me to not get any voltage at the igniton. Then rewired it and it now starts great. That could or may not be your problem. Best of Luck!! |
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| Bern Report to Moderator
| Re: 1720 no start in reply to Markford, 08-16-2008 18:59:27 | | You have an open in the main fusible link, which attaches to the starter, most likely the result of one or more shorted glow plugs. It's easy to find, only a few inches long, and I believe is joined to the main harness with a connector. |
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| Markford Report to Moderator
| Re: 1720 no start in reply to Bern, 08-16-2008 19:08:27 | | | Bern, Sorry, I don't follow. Not sure why that link would be evidenced by a lack of voltage at the ignition switch. Would not that voltage come to the ignition by way of another circuit somehow off of the battery? There are two wires from from the solenoid, one to activate the starter, and another to apparently keep current flowing thru the ignition switch to the solenoid while the tractor is running. Or am I totally mistaken on the former?
Appreciate your help- | | [Log in to Reply][No Email] | |
| Bern Report to Moderator
| Re: 1720 no start in reply to Markford, 08-17-2008 17:11:09 | | I recently threw away a lot of the old info I had on those tractors, so I'm going off of memory here...the key switch should get its power from a wire attached to the starter. The first few inches of this wire is called a fusible link. It is designed to melt in half in the event of an overload, with the insulation still intact. So, usually you cant tell by a visual inspection. Squeezing this wire with your fingers should get you the indication you need though. If there are only two wires coming from the solenoid (other than the positive battery cable) then one is for start engagement from the key switch, and the other feeds power to the key switch and points beyond. This second wire that I'm talking about (the fuse link) is attached to the same post as the positive battery cable. If memory serves, it is only a few inches or so long before it connects to another wire with a connnector. If your fuse link is indeed blown, check those glow plugs, or you'll be replacing it again. | | [Log in to Reply][No Email] | |
| Bern Report to Moderator
| Re: 1720 no start in reply to Bern, 08-17-2008 18:50:09 | | | I just went to the NH parts website. The ref # is #18, and the part number for the fuselink is SBA385603370. As Rick B stated, it's used in other compacts also. If you pull up the parts diagram for a 1910 (scott2 tractor), you'll notice that the parts page listing is an actual wire diagram, unlike the pictorial of the 20 series. It would be helpful for you to look at the wire diagram of the 1910 and compare. | | [Log in to Reply][No Email] | |
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